Unplug and Unwind on Orcas Island
By: Janna Mock-Lopez
Michael Jackson had been dead for two days and I didn’t know it. Think about how incredibly remarkable that is: In this celebrity-obsessed, Internet-possessed culture in which we live, the King of Pop had passed on, yet I wasn’t in the know. Being on Orcas Island in the San Juans truly is like being in another, isolated, world.
My family and I had been vacationing at a wonderful family retreat on Orcas Island called Smuggler’s Villa Resort. Though many parts of Smuggler’s Villa have wireless Internet access, while we were there the resort’s wireless connection was being serviced, so I had nothing to rely upon for outside connectivity except my cell phone. Needless to say, cell phone service there is spotty at best even in ideal conditions. Factor in being this far north, this far out on the water….you get the picture.
I must admit that at first not having immediate online access was frustrating. As techno-phytes, most modern men and women need connection. But, I soon found that after being without it for a few days, I was starting to settle into an island rhythm and became truly able to absorb what Orcas offers: beauty, recreation, solitude.
Orcas Island feels like nowhere else I’ve ever been. Usually when I go somewhere I can put my finger on a destination comparison, but not here. Orcas Island defies comparison. It‘s truly gorgeous, and I’ve been to many beautiful places. The mostly placid surrounding water, the forests, the dozens of islands dotting the horizon, the hypnotic setting sun were spectacular.
We started our journey from Portland on a Thursday morning and decided to hang out in Seattle for the first day and night. We stayed at Hotel Max, right downtown, a boutique hotel with top-notch service. Though the rooms are tight for a family of four, the location is prime. We loved that this hotel is far from cookie-cutter and has an over-the-top display of original artwork adorning the walls, halls and lobby. Seattle is a bustling city with plenty to do, so whether you shop, dine or sightsee, you could spend much more than a mere 24 hours doing it.
The next morning, we wanted to get an early start and make it to the Anacortes ferry at a reasonable time. From downtown Seattle, the ferry terminal is about 85 miles north, an hour-and-a-half away. Knowing what time you want to arrive on or leave from any of the San Juan Islands is critical when it comes to scheduling because, depending upon the day, time or season, ferries can be crowded with several hours of wait time to board. It’s recommended that you show up at least 60-90 minutes prior to sail time to ensure a spot on the ferry. Our goal was to make it to Orcas before lunch.
The ferry ride itself is absolutely lovely. So many little inlets and islands, the water and ride are very smooth, and our kids loved the feeling of being aboard a boat they could run around on. The cruise is short, only an hour and, if you’re lucky, you’ll be able to spot seals and waterfowl accompanying you on the journey.
Orcas is the largest of the San Juan Islands, located off the northwestern corner of Washington state and shaped like a horseshoe. Once the ferry pulled in, we meandered our way to the Eastsound, where Smuggler’s Villa Resort is located. Accommodations here consist of condos and two-story townhouses – perfect for families.
Our unit had two bedrooms, one of which had four beds in a large upstairs loft, and a second, adjacent, bedroom with a queen-sized bed. We appreciated the luxury of the newly remodeled, fully equipped kitchen where we made most of our meals. Beautifully furnished, but not overdone, we immediately felt at home.
The units have fireplaces, cable TV, washer and dryer, and a large deck off the living room with lounge chairs and a table for outdoor relaxation. There’s even a barbecue. The resort itself is a family haven with an outdoor swimming pool (which would probably be recommended during summer months), hot tub and basketball/tennis court. The property provides free access to balls and equipment.
The main attraction is the location. It’s right on a beach, which faces west towards Haro Straits and the Canadian Gulf Islands. Sunsets are breathtaking and, depending upon the amount of cloud cover or the types of clouds (stratus or cumulus), the sky’s colors and drama change each dusk. Our absolute favorite family activity was to join other resort guests at the outdoor fire pit to roast marshmallows, make s’mores, share conversation and watch the sun sink below the horizon.
During the lower tides, our kids loved combing the beach for shells, rocks and other sea artifacts. They spent hours engaged in the natural beauty. I have to say Smuggler’s Villa Resort has been the only place where I’ve ever felt completely safe letting my 9-year-old and 5-year-old kids run free on their own. They played ball, tossed rocks into the water, chased wild rabbits and had outdoor picnics.
When we decided to venture from the resort, we went to Eastsound Village, which is just a mile away and has a descent selection of tasty restaurants, souvenir shops, boutiques, a movie theater, cultural arts center and a substantial grocery store. We spent our Saturday perusing the local famer’s market and touring the island.
We also drove through the beautiful countryside and rolling hills until we ended up at Moran State Park. With over 5,000 wooded acres of trails, lakes and picnic areas, there was no shortage of beautiful scenery or recreation. We stopped for a lunchtime picnic at Cascade Lake. Though we brought our own snacks and sandwiches, there is a small food stand on the park premises that had a surprisingly decent selection (and incidentally, only takes cash).
After lunch my daughter, Alayna, went fishing with my husband, Brian (there’s a little dock area), while and my son, Evan, and I rented a two-seater paddle boat for $11 an hour. Since Evan couldn’t reach the peddles, I did most of the work. It was fun to meander around the glistening lake at a leisurely pace. The sky was turquoise blue and the early summer afternoon weather was perfect at 74 degrees. A few puffy clouds drifted above.
Before heading back to the resort, we stopped at Mount Constitution, which at 2,409 feet elevation, is the highest point in the San Juan Islands. After winding up the hill for about 15 minutes, we arrived at the top. We parked the car and then climbed up a short hill where we were rewarded with a breathtaking 360-degree view of the sounds, straits and channels, all the other islands and the Canadian mountains. Our kids ooohhed and ahhed at the spectacular view was and how they felt on top of the world.
Before calling it a day we stopped at the grocery store and bought fresh salmon and vegetables to make for dinner. We loved that we could cook in our unit, bake cookies, make popcorn or whip up omelets in the morning. A family could feasibly bring a cooler full of grub or pick up groceries at the local store upon arrival. Either way, the kitchen was a great vacation-stay bonus.
To avoid the rush of post-weekend returning traffic and get home with plenty of time to prepare for the week ahead, we chose to leave on the earliest Sunday morning ferry. As we glided across the water, back to Anacortes and the mainland, we sat outside on the ferry deck, huddled together as the violet morning sky began to turn blue. Both Alayna and Evan commented on what a wonderful time they had and how they couldn’t wait to go back.
Feeling more relaxed and removed from the daily craziness then I had in a long, long time, I hugged both my bundled kids and, as I inhaled the freshness of the crisp bay breeze, I replied that I knew just what they meant.
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Contact information:
Smuggler’s Villa Resort: smuggler.com, 800-488-2097 or 360-376-2297.
Washington State Ferry: wsdot.wa.gov/ferries for ferry schedule, Anacortes construction updates and pricing.
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Recreational activities include: biking, boating, fishing, golf, moped rentals, horseback riding, whale watching excursions, kayaking, canoeing, art galleries, shopping, dining, picnicking, beachcombing, tidepool observation, museums and pottery making. visitsanjuans.com or orcasisland.org.
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A few ideal places to bring your family:
The Funhouse Discovery Center of Orcas Island: A popular Orcas Island attraction, offering activities, exhibits, classes and entertainment focused on science, music, geography, history, sports and art. thefunhouse.org.
World Class Skate Park: This large skate park was designed by industry leader, Grindline. It’s located at Buck Park, which has tennis courts, baseball field and basketball courts.
Moran State Park: The most popular and largest public recreation area in the San Juan Islands. Ideal for families. Over 5,000 forested acres of walking, hiking and biking trails, and even a campground. It also has several lakes, including Cascade Lake and Mountain Lake for swimming, fishing and non-motorized boating, such as canoeing and kayaking.
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Fast facts:
Orcas Island is 56.9 square miles and has a population of 4,900.
The San Juan Islands are surrounded by the Salish Sea and nestled between three bustling cities: Seattle, Vancouver, B.C. and Victoria.
Of the 172 named islands in the San Juans, only three – Lopez, San Juan and Orcas – have visitor accommodations and attractions.
Best kept secret? The islands are in the “rain shadow” of the Olympic Mountains, which means nearly 250 days of sunshine annually, with half the rainfall of the mainland.
There are no stoplights on the islands.
